In Hong Kong May 2011

I am in Hong Kong.  I was last here 10 years ago and some things have changed, especially around the Soho area on HK Island.  What was run down tenements and awful old 60s council house type apartment buildings only 5 years of so ago has been literally and figuratively transformed into a mix of Madrid's old town with its little streets and bars and cafes and restaurants and shops, Balmain but intensified a hundredfold, Chelsea, many many small art galleries and fashion shops and boutiques and it is so alive. Teaming with people on even a Tuesday night.  I started at miniature English pub and had gorgeous tapas and a Tetleys English Ale (they were having a quiz night for the crowded place of some 20 or so people (max capacity), the German beer shop was not too far away.  The little concrete streets and back alleys wander all over the foot of the mountain, so it is up and down as well. Everywhere is life fun creativity in spades, experimentation.  They are trying everything to get you business but all is on a small scale.  I saw one Art shop with a modern version of Klimt that blew me away - Louise?? I will take a photo today.  Then I was determined to go to the Lonely Planet's recommended Tasting House.  It has an Italian invented sampler system for win (and another place, which I am going to tonight for single malt whiskeys.  You paid by the sip, small medium or large, where large is a good-sized wine serving.  Then there was the chees and bread to sample with it and the guy serving makes me up a selection to tickle my taste buds.  The wines are well informed and from all over the world.  Only 4 whites though and one Chardonnay from France.  I went to see the reds. The new world outdoes the old when it comes to wine these days and you don¹t have to pay top dollar.  At the far end of the 15 or so wines being dispensed by the amazing machine were the most expensive, including a 1997 Grange Hermitage. It is a truly great wine but I have tasted better in Sydney (Rouge Homme 1980 Claret, 2006 Pinotage that held Louise and I spellbound in Cape Town.  A Margaut was there and stuff Luis Arujo would be seriously impressed by. Then I met the manager when I was checking out the cheeses - He looked really French but slightly Oriental too. I thought at first he was Aussie or NZ even as he said mate a lot. He was from Stepney in London, his parents emigrated from HK? In 1969 and hasn't that area of London changed!  I still think what has happened in Soho is bigger, much more varied and it happened so fast.  Time is speeding up my friends. History matters as some basic infrastructure was there to be refreshed and the geography and original streets and ally impose a path dependent legacy.  The best part is still to come.  A group of Aussie from Melbourne wandered into the bar and I think I sensed that immediately.  It was a mix of ages cos they were at a group hug in and think mini conference for 2 days followed by fun fun fun for a few days. I threw the apparent leader a line and things took off.  He is about my age probably 5-10 years younger and rich.  He has kept Granges by the case for all years since the 70s?? Maybe 60s.  I joked he probably washed his car with Grange. 3 women by 2 were tired and left, one this blokes wife.  Then it was on for young and old. Serious partying and serious subjects as well.  I think they liked me and all wanted to know who I was and what I was doing and they seem extremely well connected. I am going to hear from them I think and may be catch up at the whiskey tasting bar later tonight, who knows. One ending vignette.  I was struggle up a very even alley way with concrete steeps and covered up bits, some interesting shops and bars etc etc and it was steep.  Then I looked up and there was a living room sized shrine, with lanterns, burning incense and other cultural thingies.  Wow the really old lives on amidst all this change.  I think HK has sent armies around the world to see what's on offer, taking the ideas and some machines and people back to HK and let them loose to compete, evolve and have sex with each other - in the Matt Ridley, although I understand that Wan Chai is a combing Bangkok, Bali, geisha happening place - I may go see.